From Editor for Emerging Product and Audio Sarah Feldberg:
A wheel of foil-wrapped cheese, ubiquitous in Vietnamese grocery stores and home kitchens. Knobs of ginger, “somewhere between a food and a medicine, a startling substance that will soothe you only by provocation.” Vegan kimchi, rooted in a childhood in a Buddhist temple, and leaf-wrapped delicacies, nestled in foliage that adds fragrance and flavor.
Today, The San Francisco Chronicle Food & Wine team publishes “Field Notes from Asian American Kitchens,” a celebration of the enormous breadth of Asian American food and the ingredients behind some beloved dishes, written, photographed, illustrated and edited by Asian American and Pacific Islander journalists and artists.
The project is debuting in conjunction with a companion series under the same title from Delish, a food publication also owned by The Chronicle’s parent company, Hearst.
“Too often, stories about ‘Asian food’ focus on East Asian cuisines, so I knew right away that I wanted to showcase the diversity of the Bay Area's AAPI community as best we could through a few stories," said Janelle Bitker, The Chronicle’s Senior Editor for Food & Wine. "The challenge was, what theme could tie these together while preserving their unique qualities?”
Chronicle Restaurant Critic Soleil Ho brought up Samin Nosrat's 2017 cookbook “Salt, Fat, Acid, Heat” and the concept of culinary building blocks as inspiration.
“[The concept] is narrow enough to spark ideas, but also can encompass so many types of stories: essays, profiles, deep dives, features rooted in the now,” Bitker said. “The writers I reached out to had so many interesting ideas, often drawing from their personal experiences. From there, the package came together seamlessly.”
The Chronicle’s Field Notes include:
For Chronicle Deputy Director of Visuals Emily Jan, “this project was a chance to work with a host of incredibly talented photographers and illustrators in the Bay Area — who all happen to be part of the AAPI community.”
Artist Reina Takahashi, for example, rendered Laughing Cow cheese in paper for Ho’s essay on its importance in the Vietnamese community. Jocelyn Tsaih “summoned abstract forms and colors” to illustrate Rachel Khong's essay on the Asian origins of ketchup and its presence in Malaysian cooking. Photographer and writer Melati Citraweji traveled across the East Bay to find specialty leaves and document the processes of turning them into beautiful wrapped dishes.
“At a time when the AAPI community is still too often bunched together and referred to as a monolithic group, it was a joy to learn about some of the many ingredients and experiences that fall under this sprawling web of communities. And it was important to me to take this opportunity to bring in artists with a range of cultural backgrounds as well as artistic practices,” Jan said.
Jan and Bitker worked closely with Deputy Creative Director for Design Alex K. Fong, who conceptualized and directed the design for the project.
“To me, color is a major part of these cuisines,” said Fong. “As an Asian American who has lived in and traveled through Asia, I’m always struck by how vividly hued the ingredients and dishes are.”
After experimenting with themes including Chinese porcelains and the artwork of Japanese printmaker and painter Hokusai, Fong ultimately started pulling hues out of the images made for the Chronicle’s stories.
“What I ended up with is not coded to any one AAPI community; I hope that it manages to capture the vibe, vitality and diversity of our cultures in an inclusive manner,” he said.
This is The Chronicle's second collaboration with Hearst Magazines. Last year, The Chronicle joined other Hearst newspapers and magazines to publish Lift Every Voice, a series of conversations with Black Bay Area elders conducted by young Black journalists. This year, that partnership continues with Delish and "Field Notes."
Delish tapped Dan Q. Dao to lead editorial production of their “Field Notes from Asian American Kitchens.” Dao — a freelance writer and editor at Paper magazine — solicited pitches from his network of writers and Twitter community.
“One thing that was important to me was to show that Asian food is not a monolith,” he said. “While East Asian cuisine — Chinese, Korean, Japanese — is so important and visible, I am of Southeast Asian descent, and I wanted to see our cuisine showcased with the same high regard. Our package represents cuisines ranging from Filipino and Malaysian to Thai and Viet-Cajun. Our contributions came from New York, Colorado, Texas, California and beyond. Our talent ranged from a ‘Top Chef’ alum to cookbook authors and folks who don't typically cover food in their work.”
Delish’s Field Notes include:
“At the end of the day, what we wanted to convey was the wealth of diversity within ‘Asian food,’” Dao said. “You're talking about the most diverse continent on the planet. Why are we calling it Asian food, and yet French, Italian, and Spanish food don't have to share the spotlight with one another as ‘European food’? And that's not even making the distinction of Asian American food, which can sometimes resemble food from Asia, but other times, in the case of immigrants and refugees in particular, must adapt out of necessity — to wondrous effect."
“By showcasing the individual and the specific, we can still embrace the solidarity behind our ‘AAPI’ label, while also injecting nuance into the way we are perceived as a community. And it's not meant to discourage people from saying they like ‘Asian food,’ it's about informing people about the wonderful world encompassed within that umbrella term.”
About The San Francisco Chronicle
The San Francisco Chronicle (www.sfchronicle.com) is the largest newspaper in Northern California and the second largest on the West Coast. Acquired by the Hearst Corporation in 2000, The San Francisco Chronicle was founded in 1865 by Charles and Michael de Young and has been awarded six Pulitzer Prizes for journalistic excellence. Follow us on Twitter at @SFChronicle.
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October 19, 2022 at 01:04AM
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SF Chronicle and Delish publish joint series on Asian American and Pacific Islander food - San Francisco Chronicle
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