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Wednesday, February 10, 2021

Chef Chen elevates Cantonese cuisine at Red 8 - Boston Herald

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Millions of kids spend their summers goofing off, running wild with a pack of friends through the neighborhood. Richard Chen filled his school vacations preparing to be one of the world’s great chefs.

“At 12 years old, I started looking over my dad’s shoulder in the kitchen and working with him,” Chen said. “In the summertime, kids are playing or going to camp and I am in a hot kitchen every day making everything from scratch.”

The lessons Chen learned helping his parents in the family’s Chicago area restaurant carried him into a groundbreaking career. The chef had been cooking professionally for nearly three decades before he opened Wing Lei in Las Vegas in 2005. Still the only Chinese restaurant in North America to have ever earned a Michelin star, Wing Lei scored the prestigious award in both 2008 and 2009.

Richard Chen of Red 8 at Encore Boston Harbor.
Richard Chen of Red 8 at Encore Boston Harbor.

Now Chen will introduce his “clean Cantonese” revolution to New England. Encore Boston Harbor has recruited him to take over as the executive chef of Red 8, the casino’s spot for Chinese favorites and wildly imaginative dishes.

“My goal is to bring the format of Wing Lei to Boston and show locals and all the states around us a great restaurant where people can enjoy the freshest food made the right way,” he said.

Chen has plenty of experience with the world of fine dining — he launched his career at the Ritz Carlton in Chicago, where he won award after award. But his results come from a startlingly simple approach.

“The bottom line is I keep everything as fresh as I can,” he said. “That means I would rather take seasonal fresh vegetables instead of using canned ones. For example, water chestnuts, I can substitute jicama to get that same level of crunchiness. … I can replace almost everything with Western ingredients to make sure everything is seasonal and fresh.”

Another Chen innovation comes from what he calls an “East meets West” view of food.

“For example, the use of truffle oil and all these European mushrooms, like morel and chanterelle, work so well (with the Red 8 concept),” he said. “The concept is Cantonese cuisine with classic Chinese and Sichuan influence. But the Western techniques I use elevate the dishes and make them cleaner. You’ll hardly see any grease at the bottom of my plates. Instead they need to be clean, fresh, flavorful. Always.”

Chen has been busy with the changes at Red 8 but he says he’s had a few free moments to explore and has been impressed with Boston’s culinary culture.

“I’ve been telling the staff over the past three weeks that I’ve been going and trying different places and I’ve just been blown away,” he said.

In honor of the Lunar New Year on Friday, Red 8 will offer a whole steamed sea bass.

RED 8 STEAMED BASS

1 sea bass, about 3 lbs.

2 T. dehydrated black mushrooms, pre-soaked, end trimmed and sliced

1 bunch scallions, cut into 2-inch julienne strips

2 cloves garlic, sliced

2-inch by 1/2-inch piece fresh ginger, finely julienned

2 T. hot oil

For the fish sauce:

7 oz. light soy sauce

2 c. chicken stock

2 t. sugar

2 t. chicken powder (optional)

1 1/2 t. sesame oil

1/4 t. white pepper

1 1/2 T. dark soy sauce

1 bunch cilantro, chopped, for garnish

Place dressed fish on a platter, sprinkle garlic, ginger and mushroom around the fish.

Place the platter into steamer for 12 minutes, then drain out the liquid, add scallions on top of the fish, and scorch with 2 T. hot oil.

Pour 4 ounces of fish sauce over the fish and garnish with cilantro.

To make the fish sauce, combine all ingredients on low, simmer for 20 minutes.

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Chef Chen elevates Cantonese cuisine at Red 8 - Boston Herald
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